As far as I am concerned, the Breguet Marine equation Marchante 5887 is a very special best watch from the brand. Though it is often at the cutting edge of watch-making technology, their replica watches still retain a very traditional and gorgeous look. You would have never guessed that the watch contains one of the most groundbreaking escapement designs in the whole history of watch making unless you knew what you were looking at.
For those not familiar with French, the Marine equation Marchante 5887 has a running equation of time display. equation Marchante roughly translates to “running equation.” In plain speaking, it displays the equation of time as a running hand in the form of a secondary minute hand that runs concurrently with the minute hand that shows civil time. The equation of time refers to the discrepancy between true solar time and mean solar time because of the elliptical nature of Earth’s orbit.
In most equation of time fake watches, the equation of time is shown using a subsidiary dial marked from -16 to +14 minutes – the amount of deviation between true solar time and civil time. As you can see, to tell the true solar time will therefore require a bit of mental calculation, which makes a running equation of time display, such as the one found on the Marine equation Marchante 5887, more elegant and intuitive.
The Breguet Marine equation Marchante 5887 is available in rose gold and platinum. The case is 43.9mm in diameter and measures about 11.5mm thick. It is an impressive case and quite different from other Breguet watches. The case middle features Breguet’s signature fluted case band, but in place of more traditional lugs are angular and dynamic-looking integrated lugs. Perhaps owing to the stronger styling, rated water resistance is 100m, which is quite unusual for a highly complicated replica watch but totally apt considering the part of Breguet’s Marine collection.
The rose gold model, the one we got to handle, features a silvered dial made of gold; while the platinum model comes with a blue dial, also made of gold. The dial is unmistakably Breguet replica, with an engine-turned dial and an engraved center portion, purposefully done to resemble waves and invoke feelings of the sea. The large gold Roman numeral hour markers sit on a ring of brushed silver and on the top of each marker is a small plot of luminescent material to improve legibility in poorly lit environments.
To the bottom right of the dial, we have a sapphire disc that provides a window to the tourbillon within. But look carefully and you will see that there is a component shaped like a kidney. The movement within is the self-winding Caliber 581DPE and it has a number of technical highlights.
As a whole, I see the Marine equation Marchante 5887 as a divisive fake watch from Breguet. Its technical achievements are significant, but its styling will almost certainly not appeal to traditionalists. However, one cannot fault them for trying, and I find the Marine equation Marchante 5887 to be a refreshing break from the replica Breguet’s more classically styled pieces.
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